Washington, Missouri*

WASHINGTON, MISSOURI

What’s happened in Washington, Missouri, since the zither factory closed? Wine, among other things. After the glaciers melted away in this region, the residual benefit was a rich soil needing no irrigation, just waiting for the grape. This dot on the map, an hour’s drive from St. Louis, is now home to four serious wineries. They have sprung to life here on Route 94, along what they call a “Weinstrasse,” which means Wine Street in German, and evokes the area’s principal heritage. As a result of a collection of glowing accounts sent back to Germany by a farmer who had recently settled here, many immigrants followed to this Missouri River Valley region in the early part of the nineteenth century. The Blumenhof Winery, established in 1979 by a descendant of one of those German settlers, is open every day for tasting and sales (except on the four major holidays) and although its wines cost half of what comparable bottles sell for in Sonoma, it has already won competitions and medals in Texas, Florida and California. A grafting of two types of grapes – chardonnay and seyval – has resulted in the silver-medal prizewinning Blumenhof Chardonel 1997.

The Augusta and Montelle Wineries, both owned by a former TWA pilot, have also produced medal winners. Augusta is most proud of its “Cynthiana” – described as “earthy”, “robust” with a “raspberry bouquet and a vanillin aftertaste”. Both the Augusta and especially the Montelle have taken advantage of valley and ridge views by building elaborate decks furnished with picnic tables. Here, weather permitting, people come weekends to picnic, listen to music and sample the whites, the reds, the blushes.

Last on the Weinstrasse is the Sugar Creek, with its lively atmosphere and singing host. He will talk wine and tell you that “La Rustica is good!” and perhaps also recommend Michael’s Signature Red. Like the other three, this winery is casual, one can buy hamburgers or wursts or bring one’s own, and depending on weather, listen to live music weekends between April and October. Dancing in the property’s gazebo is not discouraged.

For teetotalers, Washington has more: a corn cob pipe factory and museum, for one thing. One should say THE corn cob pipe factory, because it is now the only one in the world. If you haven’t seen anyone smoking a corn cob pipe lately, you may just not be looking hard enough. Although the pipe, originally made famous by Douglas MacArthur, has waned in popularity, one and a half million are still sold every year. The stem, originally made with cattle bones and reeds is now made of plastic. The bowl is gouged from special corn grown for the purpose, the cobs aged two years. These days the pipes are sold mainly through drugstore chains to older men and college boys. Want one? They retail from $2.50 to $20 and tobacco is not included. One should not visit Washington without making tracks to the homestead of Daniel Boone, a twenty mile ride out of town. He lived the last twenty years of his life here in a small town now called Defiance. The home sits on his 856 acres, is authentic, with many pieces of furniture the original furnishings. Boone’s house was thought to be the most exquisite home west of Mississippi and included elegant parlor and dining rooms, as well as a fourth floor ballroom. On the premises is also an old schoolhouse, a chapel and the home of a rich merchant of the period. There is hot controversy about Boone’s burial plot, claimed by Kentucky, but his remains are believed to be right here on this property. In any case, the “Boone Settlement” contains 150 sites of national historic value.

The area’s hands-down top restaurant, American Bounty, offers big-city quality and is to be found right in town on Front Street, which faces the Missouri River. A dinner entree of sauteed crabcakes with “kaffir lime essence, Tasmanian fire onions and red pepper aoili” goes for $17.50. Other entrees begin at about $13.95 and stop at $20.50. Other agreeable dining options in town are Char-Tony’s, or Elijah McLean’s. Walking off lunch might be a pleasure along the historical Katy Trail, the former corridor of the Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad. This nature preserve and biking-hiking trail stretches for two hundred miles across the state. It travels through valleys, remnant prairies, open pastureland, dense forests; bike rentals are available. A less ambitious form of exercise might be a walk through the Shaw Nature Reserve, with its thirteen miles of hiking trails amidst various wetlands, restoration of native vegetation, groves and fields and a wildflower garden. There is a three dollar admission charge here and children’s admission is free.

Many Bed-and-Breakfast accommodations are to be found in the Washington area. The elegant Schwegmann House overlooks the Missouri River, is in the National Register of historic places, and serves an elaborate breakfast. It also offers a suite with a massage tub for two. La Dolce Vita, another local B-and-B, also offers a “million dollar view”. The owners make and sell wine, and in addition to gourmet breakfast, make available afternoon snacks, and of course, offer a taste of the house wines, including “the best red in Missouri.” Nearby are also two motels, The Ramada and a Best Western, many antique shops, and the quaint sort of Main Street shops missing from all the chain-store malls throughout America. Washington is an unspoiled part of the Show-me state that wishes to show us how down-home and friendly Missouri can be.

Washington area Chamber of Commerce: 1-888-7WASHMO
Web site: http://www.washmo.org