IN SEARCH OF THE PERFECT BREW IN BRUSSELS
Beer and I have made a late connection. Ordinarily my preferred drink is anything with the word “Diet” on its container, but as I headed for Belgium, I knew I had to give the biére a chance. Making, pouring, serving and drinking it are the very heart of Brussels, whose other delights–chocolate, lace, art, architecture–are another part of the city’s brew.
The image of a little naked boy is seen everywhere here. It is of the city’s famous spouting stone fountain, known as Le Manneken Pis, and it comes with a legend: In the early 17th Century, a barrel of gun powder ignited in the town square. The five-year old hero pulled down his pants and with his own handy little spigot, doused the fire and saved the city. In 1619 a statue was erected in his honor, and later, the stone figure was given a tiny uniform. These days he has a vast wardrobe, and there is no souvenir shop without his likeness on a key chain or as a bottle opener.
At some beer festivals, Le Menneken Pis spouts beer, but I’m not sure which beer. The 450 varieties brewed at all times in this small country are overwhelming. A favorite with Belgians is Duvel, which translates into “Devil.” It is said that after one glass, the devil tempts one to take another. Duvel is served in its own signature glass, as is every Belgian brew, to underscore its distinctiveness. Beer names tend to be quirky, as in Delirium Tremens, with its pink elephant logo, or Malheur, which means “Misfortune” in French. LaChouffe, from one of the smallest breweries, is named for the forest elves who were said to have inspired this double-fermented ale. The elves would have thrown up their little hands if they saw me trying to describe the taste difference between their ale and the popular Stella Artois or a Hoegaarden.
Other top favorites include the beers made by Trappist monks. They are mostly served in glasses resembling the holy grail (!) but whether or not monks literally take time off from prayer and meditation to brew, stir and bottle as they once did, is moot. More often they hire someone to run the operation under the Abbey name. The Trappist beers tend to be powerful drinks with an alcoholic content of 6-12 per cent (American beers tend to be 4-5 percent alcohol by volume) and in some quarters are seen as “masculine”. The stereotypical “feminine” beers are the sweet Kriek (cherry ale)or sweeter Kriek “max” or Frambozenbier (raspberries), the very thing for a beer sissy like me.
The choices run the gamut; there are artisanal beers (creative, made by hand) and Lambic ales, (tend to be tart if not sour) blonde beers, homemade brews and so called white beer, made with wheat, common througout Brussels and Belgium.
Oddly enough, Les Brasseurs de la Grand Place is the only brewpub in town, but bars are ubiquitous. Some are hidden in dark alleyways, as is Le Cercueil (Cemetery in French) where the ambience is fun-house dark and the brews are served in skulls, or the more cheerful La Becasse, on Rue Tabora. The best shop for buying a bottle or a case is at de Bier Tempel, located near the Grand Place on Rue Marche Aux Herbes.
Grand Place, in fact, is the Times Square of Brussels minus the theaters, with shops and restaurants radiating like the rays of the sun from its sides. When not imbibing, here’s where to shop and meander, hopefully peeking into the majestic fifteenth century Town Hall, with its cathedral-like spire, and into the Maison du Roi, which houses 16th Century tapestries as well as the 400 costumes of Manneken Pis. A few steps from Grand Place is the bronze of Serclaes, whose tongue and feet were cut off, his dog killed, for defending Brussels from the Flemish in the fourteenth century. It is said that touching the statue will bring good luck; in my case perhaps luck meant finding the best place for dinner.
The choices along the Rue de Bouchers are beaucoup, but I didn’t go wrong in Aux Armes de Bruxelles. It’s a good place to try the local specialty, mussels, served in eight different ways here at about twenty Euros, including the frites. Despite cobblestone-weary feet, the Brussels experience also demanded a visit to In’t Spinnekopke, a few short streets away. With a hundred and fifty brew choices, and a menu of items blessed with beer, this homey place is where I tried the outstanding Carbonnades au Lambic. It’s hearty and delicious, costs about 12 Euros and is best followed with a dish of sorbet. Here even that dessert is made with you-know-what.
Of course it’s not only about drinking here. Part of enjoying the Brussels brew is indulging the other senses. On every side there are centuries-old architectural wonders, ancient churches and quiet parks, museums housing art collections that span seven centuries. There’s the music of spoken French and Flemish, and of course, there is that famous, unforgettable, fabulous Belgian waffle!
Where to stay:
Novotel Grand Place: Convenient location with business facilities and garden @ 174-248 Euros per night
Ibis Brussels City: For the budget-conscious, with business facilities @ 62-112 Euros per night
Amigo: Former prison, now a luxury hotel with period décor and all amenities @ over 248 Euros per night
Restaurants:
In’t Spinnekopke: (huge choices) Place du Jardin aux Fleurs 1
Chez Léon: (casual) Rue des Bouchers 18
Aux Armes des Bruxelles: (Favorite of Jacques Brel) Rue de Bouchers 13
CONTACT: www.visitbelgium.com
Or (212)758-8130